The Good Food Guide...

"After 28 years at their small cottage-restaurant, Jimmy and Amanda Graham can consider themselves old hands at the restaurant game. Yet despite their longevity they remain enthusiastic as ever, thanks to a loyal following ('the standard of food has remained first class throughout the decades'), a well-established network of local suppliers, and a passion for foraging and gardening - supplying their own herbs, soft fruit and vegetables in season.

On the food front, the kitchen maintains a balance between keeping customers happy with old favourites and evolving the style to avoid stagnation. The cooking is not complicated, but honest and unfussy - breast of woodpigeon with slow cooked pork cheek on celeriac mash, for example, and roast saddle of venison with red cabbage, fondant potatoes and beetroot port sauce.

Fish and seafood have been heartily endorsed: starters of Moray scallops with a stir-fry of pesto and seakale or halibut with buttered garden kale and parsley potato veloute perhaps, then mains of Pittenweem seafood with winter greens and salt cod brandade with a cava sauce. Typical among the desserts might be baked lemon tart with lemon posset and blackcurrant sauce."

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